colour
Self explanatory. By default, at least mE here is a little too much of the good set. With my good old DVE HD Basics Test BD and the enclosed color glasses I come to 47 as an optimal value. Of course, this is different from device to device.
Contrast
Unfortunately NOT self-explanatory, because here hides not at Philips, as one would expect, the contrast setting, but the brightness control of the LED backlight. Does not have anything to do with contrast in the classical sense. Since the PUS8102 is really quite bright, I am down to a much lower value than the default. Of course it's a matter of taste.
sharpness
With a sharpness test image to recognize well that occur at the latest from 4/10 double contours that you do not want to have. So I am at 3, but of course that may vary from model to model. The default setting is likely to be too high on all devices, which is probably intentional, because unfortunately many people perceive a too sharp picture as good and a TV with objectively correctly adjusted sharpness is now considered by many to be out of focus. As with many other settings, you have to decide whether you want to have an objectively correct image, or one that you just think looks good ...
Brightness
Again self-explanatory. Correct setting requires appropriate test images; the default but in my opinion okay.
Picture format
Also self-explanatory. The only sensible option here is "original", which produces an overscan-free image (both at 720p and 1080i / p). For 4k playback nothing can be set here; the TV defaultet in this case always on "original".
Now we come to the settings in the menu "Advanced".
Computer
Sets the underlying settings so that the TV is optimally usable as a PC monitor (which, incidentally, should not be confused with the "game" mode). Most of the settings below are then no longer touchable.
Color -> color optimization
Reinforces colors. Could be something similar to Samsung's setting "color space", where you can choose between "car" and "native", or Sony "color brilliance". Unfortunately, I can not say exactly what happens here technically, but the difference between the 4 settings is quite clear, so that you can just go for it, which suits you best.
Color -> color temperature
Also known from other devices. Provides the usual presets "Normal", "Warm" and "Cold" (I use, as on almost all TVs before synonymous, the preset "Warm"). "Personalized" allows customization, but of course only in conjunction with a calibration solution (Spider & Co.) makes sense. Here any values abzupinseln somewhere, makes no sense in my opinion, since this is always panel-specific.
The other settings in this menu are usually greyed out and make sense if, then only together with a calibration solution. Therefore, I do not go into it here.
Contrast -> Contrast mode
Here conceals - typical Philips also again a little cryptically benamst - the control of the Local Dimming. The best dimming performance and thus at least the only meaningful setting is here "Optimized for pictures". "Off", of course, makes absolutely no sense, which makes "normal" exactly, I do not know, and "Optimized for energy savings" just dims the backlight useless. Does not need a human, especially since the TV has a brightness sensor, which controls the backlight depending on the ambient light already. The fact that local dimming works again in economy mode makes little sense.
Contrast -> HDR upscaling
An HDR emulation for SDR content. Gibts synonymous with Samsung or Sony, and I personally do not want to miss that anyway. So I have it on "A", but of course again a matter of taste. The menu item is greyed out while playing HDR content, but the setting for SDR is, of course, noticeable.
Contrast -> HDR Perfect
Enhances the contrast impression, ie the distance between the brightest and darkest image information, during HDR playback. Since HDR10 content is often said to be a little sluggish, you can counteract this with this attitude. Of course, as always, there is the danger that very dark or light details will be swallowed up. The good Christian from the well-known digitalfernsehen.de test videos goes on something usually quite extensive. Therefore, I recommend to take a look at one of his tests on a recent Philips TV to see what he means. The menu item is greyed out while playing SDR content, but remembers the setting for HDR, of course.
Contrast -> Dynamic Contrast
Works in principle as well as the identically benamsten settings with Samsung or Sony. Darkness becomes darker, light becomes brighter, and of course again with the danger of black or white crush. Again, a piece of taste.
Contrast -> Video contrast
This is where the actual classic contrast control is hidden, that is, the one that is at stake when it comes to contrast in test images.
Contrast -> light sensor
Again self-explanatory. Many turn it off - always incomprehensible to me. At most I would switch off when the TV is used anyway only in the darkened room, so at almost always identical lighting conditions. Where, where it is a classic TV in a classic living room, where sometimes times during the day, he should in my opinion always be on.
Contrast -> Gamma
Again self-explanatory. The default should usually fit, so 0 (center position), which should be the value of 2.2 for most other TVs.
Sharpness -> Ultra Resolution
M.E. Something like the Edge Enhancement at Sony, there's really no reason to turn this off.
Sharp pictures -> noise reduction
Also the same as the similarly benamsten settings at Sony or Samsung (in Samsung it says "digitally prepare"). It does not hurt in my opinion, this always to run on "minimum". In the worst case, you do not see anything about it, in the best case, surface noise is quite effectively suppressed in some broadcasts (correspondingly stronger in the higher levels). But then goes with a slightly lower image sharpness, but mEidR looks better anyway. When you play high quality sources (BDs, games) you can generally turn it off.
Sharp images -> MPEG artifact suppression
Was actually meant to suppress compression artifacts. Bewikt with sufficient good material therefore not really something. Lt. Christian von digitalfernsehen.de should do the whole thing but actually synonymous something like the previously only found in Sony's filter, ironing out the color-banding artefacts, which works great at Sony's synonymous. Christian could not see anything of that with the Philips OLED, and I did not see anything here. Will continue to watch, whether there is still something to do with future FW updates.
Motion -> motion adjustment
Here we would have arrived at what Sony's "Motion Flow", Samsung "Auto Motion Plus" or LG "TruMotion", ie the interframe calculation or black frame insertion. In the item "Motion settings" several presets are available, which contain quasi fixed predefined settings of the two underlying points ("Perfect Natual Motion" aka "PNM" and "Perfect Clear Motion" aka "PCM"). Although I'm not sure if you actually get exactly the settings that are in the presets, even with manual adjustment of both points. In order to adjust the points below manually, you have to select the preset "Personal". Interestingly, at the moment, I like the preset "movie" for everything,
Motion -> Perfect Natural Motion
This calculates intermediate images. So as for example in Sony Motion Flow - Settings "Standard" or "Smoothing", or Samsung just "Auto Motion Plus", no matter in what setting (AMP is always there for intermediate images, the black frame insertion runs there under " LED Clear Motion "). For me personally, the picture, no matter what I set here, always too much the well-known soap or video look. I'm not a fan of it, others like it. But the fact is that the whole thing does not cause such bad artifacts today as it did in previous Philips TV generations. The look, of course, remains a matter of taste. A level of the intermediate image calculation, which does not look soapig, Philips mE still gets me, but still not,
Movement -> Perfect Clear Motion
This inserts black images at varying intensities to smooth movements. In Sony is called the "clear" or "clear plus", in Samsung as I said "LED Clear Motion". At Samsung (at least those that I had) was the local "LED Clear Motion" for me never usable, because the picture was not only darker, but also flickered. On Sony, however, "clear" was always my preferred setting, and here, if I did not use the "movie" preset, I would probably opt for PNM to off and PCM to maximum (which may be exactly what "movie " makes). In the case of the Sony's it is so mW that in "clear" in addition to the insertion of black images still intermediate images are calculated, but just so, that it does not look soapig Philips still can not do that, but as I said - I can live very well with the preset "movie" at the moment.